How to care for:
Monstera care in winter: 8 tips for the cold months
Winter is a challenging period for your Monstera. Less light, dry heating air, and lower temperatures — it's the exact opposite of the tropical conditions this Swiss cheese plant loves. With these 8 winter care tips, you'll ensure your Monstera gets through the cold months successfully. Winter vs. Summer Monstera Care Aspect Summer Winter Water 1x per week 1x per 10-14 days Nutrients 1x per month No nutrients Light Indirect, out of direct sun Closer to the window Misting Occasionally Recommended daily Temperature 20-25°C Minimum 15°C, away from drafts Growth Active Rest period, minimal growth Tip 1: Water less In winter, your Monstera hardly grows and evaporates less water. Therefore, give half the amount of water as in summer. Wait until the top 5 cm of potting soil is completely dry. Overwatering in winter is the number one cause of root rot. Tip 2: Increase humidity Heated air is bone dry — sometimes only 30-40% humidity, while your Monstera prefers 60-80%. Mist the leaves daily, group plants together (they create a microclimate), or place a humidifier in the room. Tip 3: Move closer to the window The winter sun in the Netherlands is weak enough not to burn your Monstera. Feel free to place it closer to the window than in summer. More light means healthier leaves, even during the darker months. Tip 4: Do not fertilize Stop fertilizing from October through February. Your Monstera is in a dormant phase and cannot absorb nutrients. Fertilizing in winter can even lead to a buildup of salts in the potting soil, which damages the roots. Tip 5: Keep away from drafts Cold drafts are detrimental to tropical plants. Do not place your Monstera next to an open window, exterior door, or ventilation grille. The cold from a single-pane window can also be harmful — keep at least 10 cm distance. Tip 6: Do not repot in winter Wait until spring to repot. During the winter months, your Monstera does not have enough energy to form new roots in fresh potting soil. Repotting in winter increases the risk of root rot. Tip 7: Keep leaves clean Dust accumulates in winter (dry air, closed windows). Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth once every two weeks. Clean leaves absorb more light — and your plant desperately needs that in winter. Tip 8: Accept less growth A Monstera that doesn't grow in winter is not a sick Monstera — it's a plant in a dormant phase. Do not try to force growth with extra nutrients or water. As the days get longer in March, you'll see new leaves emerge again. 🌿 View our Monstera collection At XXLplant, you'll find the most beautiful and largest Monsteras, directly from the grower. View Monsteras → Frequently asked questions Can my Monstera die from the cold? At temperatures below 10°C, Monstera leaves can be damaged. Below 5°C, the plant can be severely damaged or die. Always keep it above 15°C. Should I provide supplementary lighting for my Monstera in winter? It's not strictly necessary, but a grow light can help if your Monstera is in a very dark spot. Turn the lamp on for 10-12 hours a day to compensate for the lack of daylight.
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Repotting Dracaena: step-by-step guide
Repotting is an essential part of plant care. In this guide, we will teach you step-by-step how to correctly repot Dracaena. When to Repot? Your Dracaena should be repotted if: Roots are growing out of the drainage hole The plant dries out faster than usual The plant stops growing despite good light Roots are visible on the soil surface The growing season has begun (spring) Generally, strong growers like Dracaena should be repotted every 2 years. Avoid repotting in winter when growth is slow. What You Need Gather these items before you start: A new pot, 1-2 sizes larger than the current one (a few millimeters larger in diameter is better than much larger) Fresh potting mix suitable for Dracaena Mesh or screens for the drainage hole (optional) A trowel or spoon Water Old newspapers or a mat to work on Potting Soil Type: Use a well-draining soil mix. For Dracaena, standard potting mixes work well, though you can add some perlite or orchid bark for better drainage. Step-by-Step Repotting Step 1: Preparation - Lightly water the plant so the soil is not completely dry, but not soaking wet either. This makes it much easier to remove the plant from the pot. Step 2: Removing the Plant from the Pot - Tilt the pot sideways and carefully slide the plant out. If the plant is stuck, you can gently break the old pot or run a knife along the inner edges. Step 3: Examining the Roots - Inspect the roots. Healthy roots are white or light-colored. If you see black, slimy roots, there is root rot, and you should remove all rotted parts. Step 4: Removing Old Soil - Gently massage the roots to loosen some old soil. This promotes new root growth in the new soil. Don't remove everything - about 50% of the old soil can remain. Step 5: Placing the Plant in the New Pot - Put a layer of new soil in the bottom of the new pot. Place the plant so it sits at the same depth as before. Fill around with soil and gently press down. Step 6: Watering - Gently water until it drains out of the drainage hole. This helps settle the soil and properly position the roots. Step 7: Resting - Place the plant in its permanent spot and water minimally for 1-2 weeks while it adjusts to the new soil. Correct Potting Soil Dracaena is not very picky about potting soil but prefers well-draining mixes: 40% standard houseplant soil 30% perlite or vermiculite 20% orchid bark or charcoal 10% sand Alternatively, you can buy a ready-made "aroid mix" or "well-draining houseplant mix." The most important thing is that water drains well, but the plant does not dry out too quickly. Care After Repotting The first few weeks after repotting are crucial: Water moderately - do not fertilize until you see new growth Do not place in direct sunlight for several days Avoid moving and temperature fluctuations Fertilize only after 4-6 weeks once the plant has adjusted After a few weeks, you will see Dracaena producing new growth in its new pot. This indicates that the repotting was successful! 🌿 Check out our Dracaena collection At XXLplant, you will find the most beautiful and healthiest Dracaena plants, directly from the best growers. For over 10 years, customers have trusted our quality. View Dracaena → Frequently Asked Questions How often should I repot my Dracaena? Every 2 years What is the best potting soil type? Well-draining potting soil is essential. Add perlite or orchid bark for better drainage. Can I give my plant a larger pot? Yes, but no more than 1-2 sizes larger. Too large a pot leads to overwatering.
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How to repot a Monstera: A step-by-step guide
Your Monstera is growing like crazy, and its roots are peeking out from the bottom of the pot. Time to repot! But how do you do it correctly without damaging your plant? In this guide, we explain step-by-step how to repot your Monstera — including tips for the right pot, potting soil, and aftercare. Monstera Repotting Checklist What you need Details New pot 2-4 cm larger in diameter, with drainage hole Potting soil Aerated mix: 60% potting soil, 20% perlite, 20% coco coir Drainage Layer of hydro granules or clay pebbles at the bottom Moss pole Optional, for support for larger specimens Best time Spring (March-May), beginning of growing season Frequency Every 1-2 years When should you repot your Monstera? There are a few clear signs that your Monstera needs a larger pot. Roots growing out of the drainage hole, growth slowing down despite proper care, the potting soil drying out extremely quickly after watering, or roots appearing above the soil. The best time to repot is in spring (March to May), when the plant emerges from its winter dormancy and has plenty of energy to form new roots. Step-by-step: Repotting your Monstera Step 1: Preparation Water your Monstera a day in advance. This makes the root ball more flexible and reduces stress. Lay down newspaper or a plastic sheet on your workspace to prevent mess. Step 2: Remove the plant from its pot Tilt the pot and gently slide the plant out. Is it stuck? Gently squeeze the sides of a plastic pot, or use a knife to run along the inside of a terracotta pot. Never pull on the stem. Step 3: Inspect the roots Examine the root ball. Healthy roots are white to light brown. Remove any rotten (dark, soft) roots with a clean, sharp knife. Are the roots very tangled? Gently loosen them with your fingers. Step 4: Fill the new pot Place a layer of hydro granules at the bottom of the new pot for extra drainage. Then add a layer of fresh potting soil. The top of the root ball should ultimately be at the same height as in the old pot. Step 5: Place the plant Place the Monstera in the new pot and fill around it with fresh potting soil. Lightly press down the soil, but not too firmly — the roots need air. If necessary, place a moss pole for support for large specimens. Step 6: Aftercare Immediately after repotting, give it a good soak of water so that the soil settles around the roots. Do not give plant food for the first 2 weeks and avoid direct sunlight. Your Monstera needs some time to adjust to its new home. 🌿 Need an XXL Monstera? We deliver the largest ones At XXLplant, you'll find the most beautiful and largest Monsteras, directly from the grower. View Monsteras → Frequently Asked Questions How big should the new pot be? Choose a pot that is 2 to 4 cm larger in diameter than the current pot. A pot that is too large retains too much moisture, which can cause root rot. Can I use regular garden soil? No, regular garden soil is too heavy and retains too much moisture. Use an aerated mix of potting soil with perlite and coco coir for good drainage. My Monstera is drooping after repotting, is that normal? Yes, that is normal. The plant is experiencing repotting stress and needs 1-2 weeks to recover. Keep the soil lightly moist and provide indirect light.
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Brown and yellow leaves on Monstera: causes and solutions
Your Monstera has brown or yellow leaves and you want to know what's going on. Recognizable! It's one of the most common concerns among plant lovers. The good news: in most cases, it's easy to solve if you know the cause. Common Monstera Problems — Causes & Solutions Problem Cause Solution Brown leaf edges Too low humidity Mist or humidifier Yellow leaves Too much water or too little light Water less, more light Brown spots Sunburn Move out of direct sunlight Drooping leaves Too little water or root rot Check roots and watering pattern No fenestrations Too young or too little light Patience + more indirect light Black spots Root rot due to overwatering Repot, remove rotten roots Drops on leaves Guttation (normal) No action needed, it's healthy Brown leaf edges Brown, dry edges on your Monstera's leaves almost always indicate too low humidity. Especially in the winter months, when the heating is on, the air dries out quickly. The solution is simple: mist your Monstera regularly, place a bowl of water near the heater, or invest in a humidifier. Yellow leaves Yellow leaves can have several causes, but the two most common are overwatering and too little light. First, check if the soil isn't too wet. Does the potting soil still feel moist to the touch? Then you're watering too much. Let the soil dry out thoroughly before watering again. Is your Monstera in a dark spot? Then move it closer to the window. A plant that receives too little light cannot produce chlorophyll properly, causing its leaves to turn yellow. Brown spots in the middle of the leaf Brown, dry spots in the middle of the leaves usually indicate sunburn. The Monstera cannot tolerate direct sunlight — the intense midday sun can literally burn the leaf tissue. Move your plant to a spot with indirect light and remove severely damaged leaves. Limp, drooping leaves A Monstera with limp leaves is either thirsty or suffering from root rot. Feel the soil: is it bone dry? Then your plant is craving water. Give it a good drink, and within a few hours, the leaves will recover. Is the soil soaking wet? Then there may be root rot. Take the plant out of the pot, check the roots (healthy roots are white/light brown, rotten roots are dark brown/black and soft), and remove the rotten part. Repot in fresh, well-draining potting soil. When are yellow leaves normal? Important to know: if only the lowest, oldest leaves occasionally turn yellow, that is completely normal. The plant sheds old leaves to put energy into new growth. As long as the newest leaves are healthy, you don't need to worry. 🌿 Prefer a fresh, healthy Monstera? At XXLplant, you'll find the most beautiful and largest Monsteras, directly from the grower. View Monsteras → Frequently asked questions Can I make brown leaves green again? No, once brown tissue does not recover. Cut away the brown part or remove the entire leaf if it is largely damaged. Focus on preventing new damage. How do I know if my Monstera is getting too much or too little water? Check the soil: wet and musty smelling = too much water. Bone dry and pulling away from the pot edge = too little. The ideal situation is slightly moist a few centimeters deep. Should I remove yellow leaves? Yes, remove completely yellow leaves. The plant no longer draws energy from them, and they can attract mold.
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Monstera care: the complete guide to the Swiss cheese plant
The Monstera, also known as the Swiss Cheese Plant, is one of the most popular houseplants in the Netherlands. And rightly so: with its characteristic holes and incisions in the leaves, it's a real eye-catcher in any interior. But how do you care for a Monstera so that it stays healthy and beautiful for years? In this comprehensive guide, you'll learn everything you need to know. Monstera Care Table Feature Details Botanical name Monstera deliciosa Common name Swiss Cheese Plant Location Bright to partial shade, no direct sunlight Watering 1-2x per week, keep soil lightly moist Humidity High (60-80%), mist regularly Temperature 18-25°C, minimum 15°C Feeding March to September, 1x per month Repotting Every 2 years, in spring Toxic Yes, for pets and children Air purifying Yes Location and light The Monstera originates from the tropical rainforests of Central America, where it grows under the canopy of large trees. This means it prefers a bright spot, but without direct sunlight. A spot 1 to 3 meters from an east or west-facing window is ideal. If your Monstera doesn't get enough light, its leaves will grow smaller and have fewer or no holes. Too much direct sunlight, on the other hand, will cause brown spots on the leaves. Watering The Monstera likes slightly moist soil, but absolutely cannot tolerate soggy feet. Water when the top 3-5 centimeters of potting soil have dried out. In practice, this means approximately once a week in summer and once every 10-14 days in winter. A good rule of thumb: stick your finger into the soil. Does it feel dry to fingertip depth? Then you can water. Preferably use room-temperature water. Humidity As a tropical plant, the Monstera likes high humidity (60-80%). In the winter months, when the heating is on, the humidity drops significantly. Mist the leaves regularly with a plant sprayer or place a humidifier nearby. Feeding and fertilization Feed your Monstera with plant food every month from March to September. Use a universal liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength. In the winter months, the plant does not need food, as it is then in a resting phase. Pruning and maintenance Regularly remove yellow or brown leaves by cutting them off at the base with a sharp, clean knife. This encourages the plant to put energy into healthy, new growth. Clean the large leaves once a month with a damp cloth to remove dust — this allows the plant to absorb light better. 🌿 Looking for a beautiful Monstera? At XXLplant, you'll find the most beautiful and largest Monsteras, directly from the grower. View Monsteras → Frequently Asked Questions How often should I water my Monstera? Water your Monstera when the top 3-5 cm of soil feels dry. In summer, this is on average once a week, in winter once every 10-14 days. Why doesn't my Monstera have holes? Young Monsteras do not yet have holes. The characteristic holes (fenestrations) only appear as the plant gets older and larger and receives enough light. Can I put my Monstera outside? In the summer months (May-September), the Monstera can be placed outdoors in a sheltered, shady spot. Bring it indoors as soon as the temperature drops below 15°C. Is the Monstera air-purifying? Yes, the Monstera is known as an air-purifying plant. It filters harmful substances like formaldehyde from the air.
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Dracaena placement: best light and location
The location where you place your Dracaena is essential for success. In this guide, we'll help you find the perfect spot. Light Requirements Dracaena needs indirect light, tolerant of brighter spots. This means your plant should be in a location where it regularly receives bright light, but is not directly exposed to harsh midday or afternoon sun. The best locations for Dracaena: North or west-facing window (indirect light) A few feet from a window (plenty of light, not direct) Under a tree or overhang outdoors Fluorescent light room Types of Light Direct sunlight: Too intense for Dracaena, can cause leaf scorch. Bright indirect light: Perfect for this plant. Light coming through a window but not shining directly on the plant. Partial shade: Dracaena can survive here but will not grow optimally. Artificial light: Grow lights can be preferred if you don't have natural light. Placement in the House Bedroom: Good if the window gets plenty of light. Living room: Ideal with a window nearby. Office: Can work with artificial light. Bathroom: Good due to humidity, but must have a window. Hallway: More difficult without a window, poor spot. Avoid places close to heaters, air conditioners, or in strong drafts. Seasonal Shifts The sun is in different positions throughout the year. Place your Dracaena where it benefits from this: Winter: Move to a brighter spot for maximum light. Summer: Can be moved further from a window for protection against intense sun. Solve Light Problems Not enough light? Move plant to a brighter spot Clean window to let more light through Add grow lights Remove obstacles (curtains, other furniture) Too much sun? Move plant further away from the window Hang a sheer curtain Place the plant in the shade of other furniture 🌿 Explore our Dracaena collection At XXLplant, you'll find the most beautiful and healthiest Dragon Tree plants, directly from the best growers. Customers have trusted our quality for over 10 years. View Dracaena → Frequently Asked Questions What kind of light should Dracaena not receive? Avoid direct intense afternoon sun in summer, which can cause leaf scorch. Can I place Dracaena in partial shade? This is possible, but growth will be slow. Bright indirect light is ideal. Can artificial light help? Yes, grow lights can help if you have insufficient natural light.
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How do you care for the Strelitzia in winter and summer?
Caring for the Strelitzia Nicolai differs in summer and winter. Read how to keep this tropical houseplant healthy with the right watering, light, and nutrients for each season.
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Brown leaves on Strelitzia Nicolai: causes and solutions
Brown leaves on your Strelitzia Nicolai? Discover the causes, such as dry air, water problems, or sunlight – and learn how to solve them so your plant can thrive again.
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How do you repot a Strelitzia Nicolai?
The Strelitzia Nicolai needs to be repotted every few years for healthy growth. Read step-by-step instructions on how to do this and which pot and soil are best to use.
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Why the Strelitizia Nicolai is the eye-catcher for your interior
Looking for a plant that not only adds greenery but also makes a statement in your interior? The Strelitzia Nicolai is one of the most impressive houseplants you can have. With its large, tropical leaves and generous size, it instantly adds ambiance and character to any room. A tropical atmosphere in the house The Strelitzia Nicolai is called the White Bird of Paradise plant for good reason. Its imposing leaves instantly bring an exotic feel to your home: Perfect for a living room that could use some more vibrancy. Fits in both a modern and classic interior. Gives even a minimalist space a warm look. Ideal for large spaces With a height of 2 to 3 meters, this plant is a real eye-catcher: Effortlessly fills an empty corner in the living room. Brings natural balance to an open office space. Creates height differences in combination with smaller plants. A stylish combination partner The Strelitzia Nicolai combines well with furniture and accessories: Beautiful next to a leather sofa or wooden dining table. Combines perfectly with light walls and natural materials. In a large pot it becomes a real design object. Air purifying properties In addition to the visual effect, the plant also contributes to a healthier living environment: Helps to maintain humidity in balance. Filters harmful substances from the air. So it is not only beautiful, but also functional. Buy Strelitzia Nicolai Want to instantly add more ambiance and luxury to your interior? Discover our selection here: 👉 Strelitzia Nicolai at XXLPlant.com
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Common mistakes with Strelitzia Nicolai
Many Strelitzia Nicolai plants decline due to simple care mistakes. Read about common watering, light, feeding, and repotting errors – and how to keep your plant healthy.
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Strelitzia Nicolai: The ultimate guide to location and light
The Strelitzia Nicolai grows best in a bright spot with plenty of daylight. In this article, discover the best location, how much sun the plant needs, and how to prevent it from drooping or becoming small.
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Care tips for the Strelitzia Nicolai
The Strelitzia Nicolai is a tropical eye-catcher, but it does require proper care. Read on to learn how to best water this bird of paradise plant, its preferred location, and what nutrients it needs to grow strong and healthy.
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