The Alocasia, also known as elephant's ear, is one of the most spectacular houseplants you can bring home. With its large, arrow-shaped leaves and elegant veins it brings an instantly tropical feel to your interior. In this guide you will read exactly how to keep an Alocasia healthy, from light and water to solving common problems.
The Alocasia in brief
Short on time? These are the key care points in a nutshell:
- Light: bright, indirect light. No harsh midday sun.
- Water: keep the soil lightly moist, but never soaking wet. Let the top layer dry out slightly between waterings.
- Position: warm (18-25 °C), draught-free and with high humidity (preferably above 60%).
- Soil: airy and free-draining, so water runs off easily.
- Toxic: yes, to cats, dogs and people because of calcium oxalate crystals. Keep out of reach.
Want to bring a specimen home right away? Then take a look at our large Alocasias and choose the variety that suits your interior.
About the Alocasia and its origins
The Alocasia is a tropical tuberous plant from the arum family (Araceae). In nature it grows in the warm, humid forests of Southeast Asia, where it stands in the shade of larger trees. That immediately explains a lot about its wishes: it likes warmth, high humidity and filtered light rather than direct sun.
The name elephant's ear comes from the shape and size of the leaves, which in some species become substantial. Below ground sits a tuber from which the plant grows and in which it stores energy. That tuber plays an important role in winter dormancy, which we look at more closely later in this guide. There are dozens of species, from compact specimens with velvety foliage to sturdy giants that grow more than a metre tall.
Light and position
The Alocasia thrives best in a spot with plenty of bright, indirect light. Think of a place close to an east- or west-facing window, or a little further from a south-facing window. Harsh midday sun is not advisable: the direct rays can scorch the leaves, causing pale or brown patches.
Too little light is just as much a problem. In a dark corner growth stalls, new leaves become smaller and the plant may look limp. So look for a bright spot without direct sunlight during the hottest part of the day.
In terms of temperature the Alocasia is comfortable between 18 and 25 °C. Keep it away from cold draughts, an open window in winter or the airflow of an air conditioner. The warm, dry air right above a radiator is not a good spot either. Turn the plant a quarter turn now and then so all sides get even light and it does not lean towards the window.
Watering
Watering is the most important and the trickiest skill with the Alocasia. It likes lightly moist soil but does not tolerate waterlogging. Too much water is the most common cause of problems, because the roots then start to rot.
The rule of thumb: let the top two to three centimetres of soil dry out slightly before watering again. Push your finger into the pot to feel. Does it still feel damp there? Then wait another few days. In summer this often means watering once or twice a week, in winter considerably less.
- Preferably water at room temperature. Ice-cold water from the tap is a shock to the roots.
- Water until it runs out of the bottom of the pot, then throw away the excess water in the saucer.
- Never leave the pot standing in a layer of water. Standing water leads directly to root rot.
- Soft or filtered water is appreciated, as the Alocasia can be sensitive to the lime and chlorine in tap water.
Torn between slightly too dry and slightly too wet? Then choose slightly too dry. An Alocasia recovers far more easily from a drier spell than from drowned roots.
Humidity
As a tropical plant the Alocasia loves a humid environment. Humidity above 60% is ideal. In most living rooms, certainly in winter with the heating on, the air is considerably drier. You often notice that first in brown, crispy leaf edges.
You can raise the humidity in various ways:
- Stand the plant on a tray of wet clay pebbles or gravel, without the pot sitting in the water.
- Place several plants together. Together they create a more humid microclimate.
- Use a humidifier near the plant. This is the most effective solution.
- A spot in a bright bathroom or kitchen, where it is naturally more humid, often works well.
Misting the leaves regularly is often suggested, but it only has a short-lived effect and in still air can actually cause spots or mould. A humidifier or a humid position gives a more lasting result.
Feeding
During the growing season, roughly from spring to the end of summer, the Alocasia keeps growing strongly and needs feeding. In this period give liquid plant food for green houseplants dissolved in the watering water about every two to four weeks.
Stick to the dosage on the packaging, or give slightly less rather than slightly too much. Too much fertiliser builds up in the soil and can damage the roots, which shows as brown leaf tips. In autumn and winter, when growth slows or the plant goes dormant, you stop feeding. You resume as soon as you see new leaves appearing in spring.
Repotting, step by step
An Alocasia is best repotted in spring, at the start of the growing season. Repotting is needed when the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot, when the plant dries out very quickly after watering, or roughly every one to two years. Choose a pot only a few centimetres larger than the previous one: in a far too large pot the soil stays wet too long.
- Step 1: carefully take the plant out of the old pot. Tap the rim or squeeze a plastic pot to loosen the root ball.
- Step 2: gently shake some old soil off the roots and inspect them. Healthy roots are firm and pale. Cut away soft, brown or rotten roots with clean scissors.
- Step 3: put a layer of fresh, airy compost in the bottom of the new pot. A houseplant mix, optionally with some perlite or coco fibre added, ensures good drainage.
- Step 4: set the plant at the same depth as before in the middle of the pot and fill up around it with compost. Press the soil down lightly so the plant stands firmly.
- Step 5: water calmly and put the plant back in its familiar, bright spot. Keep it a little more sheltered for the first few weeks, as it needs some time to settle after repotting.
Want to go into this in more depth? Then read our extensive explanation of repotting an Alocasia with extra tips on the right soil mix.
Pruning and leaf care
You do not really need to prune the Alocasia to keep it in shape. You may, however, remove old, yellow or damaged leaves. Cut the leaf in question off at the base of its stem with clean, sharp scissors. That way the plant puts its energy into new growth instead of into a leaf that is on its way out anyway.
The large leaves catch a relatively large amount of dust, which makes absorbing light harder. So wipe the leaves now and then with a soft, slightly damp cloth. That not only keeps them nicely glossy, it also lets the plant breathe better. While you are at it, check the undersides of the leaves so you spot any starting pest early.
Solving common problems
The Alocasia makes it clear when it is not comfortable. Below are the most common complaints, with cause and solution.
Yellow leaves
Yellow leaves are usually caused by too much water. Check that the soil does not stay wet for long and that the pot drains well. Water less and let the top layer dry out in between. Note: a single old lower leaf turning yellow and dying off is normal, certainly if new leaves are appearing at the top.
Brown edges or tips
Crispy, brown edges often point to humidity that is too low or dry air from the heating. Raise the humidity and move the plant away from the radiator. Brown tips can also arise from too much fertiliser or from lime in the watering water. In that case flush the soil through thoroughly with soft water.
Limp or drooping leaves
Limp leaves can have two opposite causes: too dry or too wet. So always feel the soil first. If it is bone dry, water it. If it is soaking wet, the plant is probably drooping because of the start of root rot. A cold, draughty spot or a plant that has just been repotted can also look temporarily limp.
Root rot
Root rot is caused by persistently wet soil. The plant looks limp, the lower leaves yellow and the stem can turn soft and brown at the base. Take the plant out of the pot, rinse the roots and cut away all soft, brown roots. Then repot into fresh, dry compost and be sparing with water at first, so the healthy roots can recover.
Spider mite and other pests
In dry air the Alocasia is susceptible to spider mite. These are tiny arachnids that you recognise by fine webbing between the leaves and stems and by small yellow speckles on the leaf. Raise the humidity, as spider mite actually likes dryness. Wipe the leaves regularly, including the underside, and treat the plant with an organic control product for a persistent infestation. Keep an affected plant separate from your other plants for a while. Mealybug and thrips can also occur: when in doubt always check the leaf underside and the leaf axils.
The Alocasia in winter dormancy
Do not be alarmed if your Alocasia drops leaves in autumn or winter and looks barer. This is completely normal behaviour. As the days grow shorter and colder, the plant may go dormant and give up part of its leaves. The energy then withdraws into the tuber below the soil.
What matters is that you adjust your care during this period. Water clearly less, as a dormant plant uses far less moisture, and stop feeding. Even if everything above ground disappears, the tuber can still be perfectly alive. So do not throw it out too quickly. Put the pot in a slightly cooler but bright spot and keep the soil just barely moist. As soon as the days lengthen again in spring, new leaves usually appear by themselves and you pick up normal care again.
Is the Alocasia toxic?
Yes, the Alocasia is toxic. All parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate crystals. In cats, dogs and people these can cause irritation of the mouth, throat and stomach when chewed or swallowed, with symptoms such as drooling, vomiting and a burning sensation. So keep the plant out of reach of pets and young children.
Wash your hands after pruning or repotting, as the plant sap can also irritate the skin. Has a pet or child eaten from the plant and are there symptoms? Then contact your doctor or vet.
Popular Alocasia varieties
The Alocasia has many species, each with its own character. These are the best known and most beautiful to bring home:
- Alocasia Zebrina: famous for its striking, zebra-striped stems from which large arrow-shaped leaves rise. A real eye-catcher with a graphic, modern look.
- Alocasia Macrorrhiza: the classic giant, also called the true elephant's ear. With its enormous, glossy leaves it grows substantially large and makes a real impression in a spacious room.
- Alocasia Portodora: a sturdy, upright species with deeply wavy leaf edges. Robust and imposing, ideal as a stately solitary plant.
- Alocasia Frydek: also known as Green Velvet. Dark green, velvety leaves with sharply contrasting bright white veins. Somewhat more compact and very elegant.
- Alocasia Polly (Amazonica): perhaps the best known of all. Compact, with glossy dark green, arrowhead-shaped leaves and thick pale veins. Perfect if you have little space but still want that tropical effect.
Curious which variety suits you best? In our collection of large Alocasias you will find various sizes and varieties side by side.
Frequently asked questions about the Alocasia
How often should I water my Alocasia?
There is no fixed schedule. Water as soon as the top two to three centimetres of soil has dried out. In summer that is often once or twice a week, in winter considerably less. Always feel the soil before you water.
Why is my Alocasia dropping leaves?
In autumn and winter leaf loss is often simply winter dormancy and no cause for panic. If leaves drop outside that season, look critically at your watering. Both too wet and too dry can cause leaf loss.
My Alocasia has brown leaf edges, what now?
Brown, crispy edges usually indicate air that is too dry. Raise the humidity with a humidifier or a tray of wet clay pebbles, and move the plant away from the heating.
Is the Alocasia toxic to my cat or dog?
Yes. The plant contains calcium oxalate crystals which cause irritation and gastrointestinal complaints in animals and people. Put the plant out of reach of pets and children.
Will my Alocasia get new leaves after winter?
Usually yes. Even if the plant has become almost bare above ground, the tuber below the soil is often still alive. Keep the soil lightly moist and be patient: in spring new leaves generally appear by themselves.
Which position is best for an Alocasia?
A warm, draught-free spot with plenty of bright, indirect light and high humidity. Avoid harsh midday sun and the dry air above a radiator. A bright bathroom or a spot slightly away from a window often works excellently.
My Alocasia has stopped growing, what is going on?
In autumn and winter slowed growth is normal. If the plant does not grow during the growing season, check light (enough bright indirect light?), feeding (are you feeding during the growing season?) and the pot (is it not too cramped?). Often it comes down to one of these three.
