The Dracaena, also known as the dragon tree, is one of the most rewarding houseplants you can bring home. With graceful tufts of foliage on slender, bare stems this plant instantly brings a tropical, architectural feel to your interior. And the lovely thing is: the Dracaena asks surprisingly little of you. It tolerates partial shade, forgives you a missed watering and keeps growing steadily for years into a stately specimen. In this guide we take you step by step through everything you need to know to keep your dragon tree healthy and handsome, from the right position to solving brown leaf tips.
The Dracaena in brief
Short on time? These are the key care points in a nutshell:
- Light: bright indirect light or partial shade. Variegated varieties want more light than green ones.
- Water: let the top half of the compost dry out between waterings. Better too dry than too wet.
- Water quality: sensitive to fluoride and salt. Preferably use rainwater or tap water left to stand overnight.
- Position: warm room temperature, not below 12 degrees, away from cold draughts and the heating.
- Humidity: average. Watch out for spider mite in dry air.
- Toxic: yes, to cats and dogs. Place out of reach of pets.
Looking for a substantial specimen for the living room or office? Then take a look at our collection of large Dracaenas in various varieties and heights.
About the Dracaena and its origins
The Dracaena belongs to the Asparagaceae family and counts dozens of species. In nature the plant occurs mainly in the tropical regions of Africa, with a number of species on Madagascar and in Asia. In the wild some Dracaenas grow into trees many metres tall, but as a houseplant it stays rewarding and manageable.
The name dragon tree refers to the red-coloured resin some species exude when the stem is damaged. That resin was once used as a dye and in folk medicine. What makes the Dracaena so loved as a houseplant is the combination of a graphic growth habit, the slender bare stems with a plume of graceful foliage on top, and the fact that it asks little effort. That makes it an ideal plant both for beginners and for anyone who likes a large, defining green eye-catcher.
Light and position
The Dracaena is flexible in its light needs, and that is what makes it so versatile. It looks its best in a spot with bright indirect light, for example a few metres from an east- or west-facing window. Direct, harsh midday sun can scorch the leaves and cause pale patches, so that is best avoided.
Particularly handy: the Dracaena also tolerates partial shade well. That makes it a solution for slightly darker corners where many other plants give up. Do bear in mind the difference between varieties: variegated versions, such as those with yellow or cream stripes in the leaves, need more light to keep their markings. If they get too little light, the variegation fades and the plant grows sparse and stretched towards the light.
In terms of temperature the Dracaena feels at home at ordinary room temperature, between roughly 18 and 24 degrees. Make sure it does not drop below 12 degrees and keep it away from cold draughts and from the hot, dry airflow of a radiator. Turn the pot a quarter turn now and then so the plant grows evenly and does not lean towards the light.
Watering
For the Dracaena there is a golden rule when watering: better slightly too dry than too wet. The plant stores moisture in its stem and copes with a dry spell better than with waterlogging. Too much water is the most common cause of problems, because the roots then start to rot.
The rule of thumb: let the top half of the compost dry out before watering again. Push your finger a few centimetres into the soil; if it still feels damp, wait a little longer. In practice this often works out at about every seven to ten days during the growing season (spring and summer), and considerably less in winter, sometimes only every two to three weeks. Always adapt the frequency to what the plant needs, not to a fixed schedule.
Make sure excess water can always drain away and never leave the pot standing in a layer of water. Empty a saucer or cachepot after a quarter of an hour.
Watch the water quality
One feature that sets the Dracaena apart from many other houseplants: it is sensitive to fluoride and salt in water. These substances build up in the leaves and over time cause brown, dried-out leaf tips. Standard tap water often contains them. So preferably give your dragon tree rainwater, or let tap water stand overnight in an open jug before using it. That makes a considerable difference to the number of brown tips.
Humidity
The Dracaena is not demanding when it comes to humidity and is perfectly happy with the average humidity found in most living rooms. So it does not need daily misting like some tropical plants.
It is worth knowing, though, that very dry air, for example right next to a radiator in winter, dries the foliage out faster and makes the plant more susceptible to spider mite. If your Dracaena stands in a dry room, it helps to mist it occasionally with lukewarm water or place a dish of water with pebbles nearby. Wiping the leaves now and then with a damp cloth keeps dust off and the stomata open.
Feeding
The Dracaena is a steady grower and does not need an abundance of feeding. During the growing season, from spring into late summer, give it liquid houseplant food dissolved in the watering water about every two to four weeks. Stick to the recommended dosage on the packaging, or give slightly less rather than more; overfeeding also causes brown leaf edges through salt build-up.
In autumn and winter the plant largely stops growing. Give no or hardly any feed in that period, so the Dracaena can overwinter peacefully.
Repotting, step by step
A Dracaena does not need repotting often. On average every two to three years is enough, preferably in spring when growth picks up again. Repotting is needed as soon as roots grow out of the bottom of the pot or the plant becomes very top-heavy. Here is how to go about it:
- Choose the right pot. Take a pot about 2 to 4 centimetres wider than the old one. A far too large pot holds moisture too long and increases the risk of root rot. Make sure it has a drainage hole.
- Use airy compost. A free-draining compost for houseplants or green plants is perfectly fine. Optionally mix in some perlite for extra drainage.
- Carefully take the plant out of the pot. Tilt the pot and support the stem. Loosen the outside of the root ball a little and carefully remove soft, brown or rotten roots.
- Position and top up. Put a layer of compost in the bottom, place the plant at the same height as before in the middle and fill up around it with compost. Press down lightly so the plant stands firmly.
- Water it. Give a moderate amount of water after repotting and put the plant back in its familiar spot. Wait until the plant has settled in well, after about four to six weeks, before feeding.
Brown leaf tips: cause and solution
Brown leaf tips are by far the most common complaint with the Dracaena, and fortunately almost always solvable. The three main causes:
- Fluoride and salt in the water. This is the classic issue with the Dracaena. Switch to rainwater or tap water left to stand overnight and the new leaves will come through cleaner.
- Air that is too dry. Right next to the heating the leaf tip dries out. Move the plant or raise the humidity slightly.
- Irregular watering. Long swings from bone dry to soaking wet stress the plant. Keep a more even rhythm.
Already have brown tips? They will not turn green again. You can happily trim them neatly: follow the natural shape of the leaf with clean scissors and leave a thin brown edge, so you do not cut into healthy green tissue. It does the plant no harm and it immediately looks well-kept again.
Pruning and branching
Pruning is not compulsory with the Dracaena, but it is a handy way to adjust its shape or shorten a plant that has grown too tall. It is best to prune in spring or early summer, when the plant is in full growth and recovers quickly.
If you want a fuller, branched plant, you can cut the top off a stem with clean, sharp scissors or a knife. Below the cut the plant forms new shoots after a few weeks, often two or more, making your dragon tree fuller. You can root the cut top in water or moist compost to make a new plant. Bear in mind that after pruning the plant has a fairly bare stem with a new plume on top; that is the typical, graceful Dracaena shape.
Common problems
If your dragon tree is not looking quite right, the cause is usually easy to trace. Below are the most common problems with their cause and solution.
Brown leaf tips
Cause: fluoride and salt in tap water, air that is too dry or irregular watering. Solution: use rainwater or water left to stand, raise the humidity and keep an even watering rhythm. You may trim brown tips.
Yellow leaves
Cause: older lower leaves turning yellow and dropping are part of natural growth. If many leaves turn yellow at once, that usually points to too much water. Solution: let the soil dry out further between waterings and check that the pot drains well. A single yellowed lower leaf is no cause for concern.
Limp or soft stem
Cause: a stem that feels soft, spongy or wrinkled almost always indicates too much water and the start of rot. Solution: take the plant out of the pot, remove rotten roots and stem sections, let the root ball dry out and repot into fresh, dry compost. Water sparingly afterwards.
Spider mite
Cause: these tiny mites appear mainly in dry air and give themselves away by fine webbing and speckled, dull foliage. Solution: rinse the plant off under the shower, raise the humidity and treat the foliage with an organic product if needed. Check the undersides of the leaves regularly.
Root rot
Cause: persistently wet soil, often combined with too large a pot or a pot without a drainage hole. Solution: repot immediately into fresh compost, cut away black, soft roots and adjust your watering. Prevention is far easier than cure here, so always let the soil dry out sufficiently.
Is the Dracaena toxic?
Yes, the Dracaena is toxic to cats and dogs. The plant contains saponins, substances that can cause drooling, vomiting, reduced appetite and lethargy if the leaves are eaten. If you have pets that like to nibble plants, put your dragon tree somewhere they cannot reach, for example up high or in a separate room. For people, the plant is simply not for eating; wash your hands after pruning and keep the sap away from small children.
Popular Dracaena varieties
The Dracaena is available in many different varieties, each with its own character. These are the best known and most attractive:
- Dracaena marginata: the classic dragon tree with thin, curving stems and narrow, red-edged leaves. A real eye-catcher with a graphic, graceful look.
- Dracaena fragrans (massangeana), the corn plant: recognisable by its broad, glossy leaves with a yellow central stripe. A substantial, robust presence that also does well in partial shade.
- Dracaena reflexa (Song of India): more compact and fuller, with short leaves edged in creamy yellow. Gives a fresh, variegated feel.
- Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig': deep green, glossy leaves and a calm, elegant look. One of the more shade-tolerant varieties and therefore ideal for darker spots.
Would you like a substantial specimen as a green eye-catcher? In our collection of large Dracaenas you will find these varieties in generous sizes, perfect for the living room, hallway or office. Also looking for a stately XXL dragon tree that makes an instant impression? Then you are in the right place.
Frequently asked questions about the Dracaena
How often should I water my Dracaena?
Water as soon as the top half of the compost has dried out. In spring and summer that often works out at every seven to ten days, in winter considerably less. Always feel the soil first rather than following a fixed schedule, and give slightly too little rather than too much.
Why is my Dracaena getting brown leaf tips?
Usually because of fluoride and salt in tap water, sometimes because of air that is too dry or irregular watering. Switch to rainwater or tap water left to stand overnight and keep an even watering rhythm. You can trim the brown tips neatly.
How much light does a Dracaena need?
Bright indirect light is ideal, but the plant also tolerates partial shade well. Variegated varieties with yellow or cream stripes need more light to keep their markings. Avoid harsh direct midday sun, as it scorches the foliage.
Is the Dracaena toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes. The plant contains saponins which in cats and dogs can lead to drooling, vomiting and lethargy. Place the plant out of reach of pets that like to nibble plants.
My Dracaena is losing leaves at the bottom, is that bad?
Not necessarily. It is normal for older, lower leaves to slowly turn yellow and drop; that is how the typical bare stem with a plume on top develops. If many leaves suddenly drop at once, check whether you are not overwatering.
Can I prune my Dracaena to make it fuller?
Yes. In spring or early summer cut the top off a stem with clean scissors. The plant forms new shoots below that, making it fuller. You can root the cut top in water or moist compost to make a new plant.
How big can a Dracaena get?
As a houseplant a Dracaena grows steadily to about 1.5 to 2 metres or more, depending on the variety and the space. It grows slowly, so a large specimen stays nicely in proportion for years. If you want a substantial plant straight away, choose an XXL size.
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