Few houseplants give a room as much presence as a large Ficus. Whether you fall for the generous, fiddle-shaped leaves of the Ficus lyrata, the glossy foliage of the rubber plant or the fine, graceful leaves of the weeping fig: the fig tree has been a beloved houseplant for generations. And rightly so, because with a little attention to light, water and position a Ficus stays beautiful for years. In this guide we take you step by step through its care, so your plant stays healthy, full and green.
The Ficus is known as a plant with character. It makes it very clear when something does not suit it, usually by dropping leaves. That sounds tricky, but once you know its preferences it is surprisingly easy to live with. Below we cover everything you need to know, from the right spot to solving common problems. Still looking for a specimen? Then take a look at our collection of large Ficus plants for a statement plant that makes an instant impression.
The Ficus in brief
Short on time? These are the key care points at a glance:
- Light: plenty of bright, indirect light. No harsh midday sun on the leaves.
- Water: moderate. Let the top layer of soil (about 2 to 3 cm) dry out before watering again.
- Position: a fixed, warm spot between roughly 18 and 24 °C, free of draughts and away from the heating.
- Humidity: average to slightly higher. Dust the leaves and mist occasionally in dry air.
- Toxic: yes, the milky sap (latex) is mildly toxic to cats and dogs and can irritate the skin.
About the Ficus and its origins
The Ficus belongs to the mulberry family (Moraceae) and counts hundreds of species, from small houseplants to enormous trees. The species we know as houseplants come originally from the tropical and subtropical regions of Asia and Africa, where they grow up in the shade of larger trees. That immediately explains their preference: they like warmth, moisture and bright light, but not scorching full sun.
In nature many figs grow to a considerable size. In the wild a Ficus lyrata or Ficus elastica becomes a genuine tree several metres tall. Indoors growth stays manageable, but it does explain why these plants lend themselves so well to being a large, impressive houseplant. A shared feature of all figs is the milky sap that is released as soon as you damage a leaf or branch. This sap (latex) is characteristic of the family.
Light and position
Light is perhaps the most important factor for a healthy Ficus. Virtually all indoor figs thrive best in a spot with plenty of bright, indirect light. Think of a place near an east- or west-facing window, or a few metres from a south-facing window. Too little light causes weak growth, smaller leaves and eventually leaf drop. Harsh, direct midday sun, on the other hand, can cause unsightly brown patches on the foliage.
Just as important is the stability of the position. The Ficus is a creature of habit and absolutely dislikes being moved. If you shift it to a spot with different light or a different temperature, it often responds with leaf drop. So choose a good, fixed spot straight away and leave it there. The Ficus benjamina and the Ficus lyrata in particular are sensitive to this.
Watch out for draughts and heat sources too. A spot right next to a frequently opened door, a draughty window or on top of a radiator is not a success. Draughts and dry, warm air from the heating are a well-known cause of falling leaves. A stable room temperature between roughly 18 and 24 °C is ideal. Keep the plant away from cold windows in winter.
Watering
When watering the Ficus there is a golden rule: better slightly too dry than too wet. Most problems arise from too much water, not too little. Only water again when the top 2 to 3 cm of compost has dried out. Feel free to push your finger into the soil to check. If it still feels damp, wait another few days.
Exactly how often that is depends on the time of year, the light and the size of the plant. In spring and summer, the growing season, you often water about once a week. In autumn and winter the plant barely grows and needs far less, sometimes only once every two weeks. Preferably water at room temperature.
- Avoid waterlogging: pour excess water out of the cachepot or saucer. A Ficus must never stand in a layer of water for long, as that leads to root rot.
- Ensure drainage: use a pot with a hole in the bottom and a layer of clay pebbles, so excess water can escape.
- Watch the signals: limp, yellow and falling leaves often point to too much water. Brown, dry leaf edges can indicate too little water.
Humidity
As a tropical plant the Ficus appreciates average to slightly higher humidity. In most living rooms it feels perfectly at home, but in winter the heating can dry the air out considerably. You sometimes notice that in brown leaf tips or an increased chance of spider mite.
You help the plant by misting the foliage occasionally with lukewarm, low-lime water, or by standing the pot on a tray of wet clay pebbles. Bear in mind that low humidity combined with warm air creates ideal conditions for spider mite. A more humid environment therefore also works as prevention against pests.
Feeding
During the growing season, roughly from April to September, your Ficus needs extra feeding to keep growing well. In this period give liquid plant food for green houseplants dissolved in the watering water about every two weeks. Stick to the dosage on the packaging, as too much fertiliser does more harm than good and can damage the roots.
In autumn and winter the plant rests and barely grows. Stop feeding in this period or cut it back considerably. A newly repotted plant does not need feeding for the first few months, as fresh compost already contains enough nutrients.
Repotting, step by step
You repot a Ficus on average every two to three years, preferably in spring at the start of the growing season. You notice it is time when the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot or when the plant seems to stop growing. Large figs already in a substantial pot do not always need moving: often it is enough to refresh the top layer of compost each year.
- Step 1: choose a pot about 20 per cent larger in diameter than the current one, with a hole in the base.
- Step 2: put a layer of clay pebbles in the bottom for good drainage.
- Step 3: carefully take the plant out of the old pot and loosen the root ball gently. Remove some old soil carefully.
- Step 4: place the plant in the new pot and top up with fresh houseplant compost. Press the soil down lightly.
- Step 5: water the plant and put it back in its familiar spot.
Wear gloves while repotting. Handling quickly releases some milky sap, which can irritate the skin. Give the plant a little time to settle after repotting; a short setback is normal.
Leaf drop in the Ficus: causes and solution
Leaf drop is by far the most frequently asked question about the Ficus, and almost always it is the plant's way of indicating that something has changed. The Ficus benjamina is famous for dropping a handful of leaves at the slightest change. Good news: in most cases the plant recovers by itself once conditions are stable again.
The most common causes of leaf drop are:
- A move or a new position: the plant has to get used to different light and a different temperature. Leave it alone and it will pull through.
- Draughts or cold: a draughty spot or a cold window causes a shock reaction. Move the plant somewhere more sheltered.
- Too much or too little water: both waterlogging and drying out lead to leaf drop. Check the compost and adjust your watering regime.
- Too little light: in a dark spot the plant sheds leaves. Move it somewhere brighter, but not into full midday sun.
The golden tip for leaf drop: do not hastily change all sorts of things. A Ficus needs calm and consistency. Provide a good, fixed spot with enough light and an even watering regime, and give the plant time to recover.
Pruning and keeping it in shape
Pruning is best done in spring. It keeps your Ficus compact, full and in shape, and encourages the plant to form new shoots on lower branches. Cut with clean, sharp secateurs just above a leaf or node. You can happily shorten overly long, bare branches, and remove dead or damaged branches entirely.
Pruning releases milky sap. Wear gloves and put a cloth under the plant if needed to prevent stains. Do you want your Ficus to become fuller? By pinching out the tips regularly, the plant branches better and you get a denser crown. Also dust the leaves regularly with a damp cloth: clean leaves absorb more light and keep a better shine.
Common problems
Is your Ficus not responding as you hoped? Below are the most common complaints with their cause and solution.
Leaf drop
Cause: usually a change of position, draughts, cold, or a root system that is too wet or too dry. Solution: provide a fixed, draught-free spot with enough light and an even watering regime. Give the plant peace to recover.
Yellow leaves
Cause: in the vast majority of cases too much water. The roots then get too little oxygen. Solution: let the soil dry out further between waterings and make sure the plant is not standing in water. A single yellowed lower leaf on an otherwise healthy plant is normal.
Brown spots or brown edges
Cause: brown spots in the middle of the leaf often point to direct sun or a scorched leaf; brown, dry edges indicate air that is too dry or too little water. Solution: move the plant out of harsh midday sun, raise humidity and keep the watering rhythm even.
Spider mite and mealybug
Cause: spider mite has free rein in warm, dry air and is recognisable by fine webbing and speckles on the leaves. Mealybug appears as white, cottony blobs in the leaf axils. Solution: raise the humidity, wipe the leaves, and remove mealybug with a cotton bud dipped in surgical spirit. For stubborn infestations an organic control product helps. Check the undersides of the leaves regularly.
Is the Ficus toxic?
Yes, the Ficus is mildly toxic. The milky sap (latex) released when leaves or branches are damaged can cause stomach and intestinal complaints in cats and dogs if they eat it. For people the sap can also irritate the skin, especially sensitive skin. So keep the plant out of reach of pets and small children inclined to chew on leaves.
In practice this mainly means: wear gloves when pruning and repotting, and wash your hands after contact with the sap. For a household without nibbling pets the Ficus is perfectly easy to keep, as long as you allow for this sap.
Popular Ficus varieties
Various characters hide behind the name Ficus. These are the four most popular indoor species, each with its own look and preferences. View the full range in our collection of large Ficus plants.
Ficus lyrata (fiddle leaf fig)
This statement plant owes its name to its large, fiddle-shaped leaves. It likes plenty of bright, indirect light and is sensitive to being moved and to draughts; at any change it quickly drops leaves. Wipe the large leaves regularly with a damp cloth, so they shine nicely and absorb light optimally.
Ficus elastica (rubber plant)
The rubber plant has glossy, leathery leaves and is one of the tougher options among the popular species. It does well in a spot with bright, indirect light. There are also variegated versions with cream or pink tones; those need a little more light to keep their colour.
Ficus benjamina (weeping fig)
With its fine foliage and gracefully drooping branches the weeping fig is a classic. It is known for dropping leaves when its position or light changes or when it stands in a draught. Give it a fixed, bright and draught-free spot and it stays full and healthy.
Ficus microcarpa (Ginseng)
The Ficus microcarpa, often sold as Ginseng, stands out for its thick, above-ground root trunk and compact crown. It is widely grown as a bonsai and likewise needs bright, indirect light and an even watering regime. Ideal if you like a sculptural, smaller Ficus.
Frequently asked questions about the Ficus
Why is my Ficus losing leaves?
Leaf drop is almost always a response to change: a new position, draughts, cold, too much or too little water, or too little light. Provide a fixed, bright and draught-free spot with an even watering regime and give the plant time to recover.
How often should I water my Ficus?
Only water when the top 2 to 3 cm of compost has dried out. In summer that is often about once a week, in winter much less, sometimes once every two weeks. Better slightly too dry than too wet.
How much light does a Ficus need?
Plenty of bright, indirect light. A spot by an east- or west-facing window is ideal, or a few metres from a south-facing window. Avoid harsh, direct midday sun, as it scorches the leaves. Too little light leads to smaller leaves and leaf drop.
Is a Ficus toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes, the milky sap is mildly toxic to pets and can cause stomach and intestinal complaints if they eat it. The sap can also irritate the skin. Keep the plant out of reach of pets and children.
Can a Ficus stand in front of a window?
Close to a window with plenty of indirect light is fine. Just avoid full, scorching midday sun and a draughty or cold window in winter, as the plant responds to that with leaf drop or brown patches.
How do I keep my Ficus nice and full?
Give it enough light, a fixed spot and regular care. Prune in spring and pinch out the tips to encourage branching. Dust the leaves so they absorb more light and keep their shine.
Where do I buy a large Ficus?
At XXLplant you will find a wide collection of fully grown, large figs that make an instant impression. Take a look at our large Ficus plants and choose the variety that suits your interior.
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