The Monstera, commonly known as the Swiss cheese plant, is arguably the most loved houseplant of the moment. And that is not without reason. Those enormous, glossy leaves with their characteristic holes and notches give any room an instantly tropical, lush look. The lovely thing is that the Monstera is not only beautiful but also surprisingly easy to keep. With a little attention it grows into an impressive eye-catcher that lasts for years.
In this comprehensive guide we take you step by step through everything you need to know to keep your Monstera healthy and happy. From the right position and watering to the famous moss pole and the question that occupies so many plant lovers: why is my Monstera not getting any holes? Want to get started right away? Then take a look at our collection of large Monsteras and bring a fully grown eye-catcher straight into your home.
The Monstera in brief
Short on time and want to know quickly what your Monstera needs? Here are the key care points at a glance.
- Light: bright, indirect light. No harsh midday sun on the leaves.
- Water: water as soon as the top 2 to 3 cm of soil feels dry, on average every 7 to 10 days.
- Position: a warm, bright spot with a temperature between 18 and 24 °C, away from draughts and heating.
- Humidity: average to high. The Monstera likes a humid environment.
- Moss pole: a moss pole helps the plant climb and form larger leaves.
- Toxic: yes, to cats and dogs. Keep the plant out of reach of pets.
About the Monstera and its origins
Botanically the Monstera deliciosa belongs to the Araceae family (arums) and comes originally from the tropical rainforests of Central and South America. In its natural surroundings it is a climber that grows up tree trunks with the help of aerial roots, in search of the light that falls through the canopy. That immediately explains a lot about how to care for the plant at home: it likes a warm, humid environment with bright but filtered light.
The name Monstera refers to the "monstrous" size the plant can reach, and deliciosa refers to the edible fruit the plant can bear in tropical regions. Indoors you will rarely see that fruit, but the imposing leaves make up for it. A healthy, mature Monstera can produce leaves 60 to 90 cm wide, with the typical holes and notches that make the plant so recognisable.
Light and position
Light is perhaps the single most important factor for a healthy Monstera. The plant thrives best in bright, indirect light. Think of a spot right by an east- or west-facing window, or a little further from a south-facing window. Too little light slows growth and means new leaves stay small and without holes. Too much direct sun, especially harsh midday sun, can instead cause ugly brown scorch marks on the foliage.
Put your Monstera in a warm spot with a temperature between 18 and 24 °C. Avoid positions right above a radiator or in the draught of a frequently opened door or window, as swings in temperature and dry air are not helpful. Turn the plant a quarter turn now and then so all sides get equal light and it grows evenly rather than leaning towards the window.
Watering
When it comes to watering the Monstera, the main rule is: better slightly too little than too much. The biggest mistake you can make is structurally overwatering, because the Monstera is sensitive to waterlogging and the root rot that follows. So always feel the soil with your finger first. Are the top 2 to 3 cm dry? Then it is time to water. Does it still feel damp? Then wait a few more days.
In practice this often works out at about every 7 days in spring and summer, and every 10 to 14 days in autumn and winter, when the plant is resting. Preferably water at room temperature and always use a pot with a good drainage hole. Let excess water drain from the saucer after a quarter of an hour, so the roots never sit in a layer of water.
Humidity
As a tropical plant the Monstera likes average to high humidity. In most living rooms it manages fine, but in winter, when heating dries the air out considerably, an extra boost can be welcome. Brown, crispy leaf edges are often how you notice the air is too dry.
You can easily raise humidity by misting the plant occasionally with lukewarm water, by putting it in a humid room such as the bathroom, or by grouping several plants close together. Wipe the large leaves regularly with a damp cloth too. That not only keeps dust away but also ensures the leaves can absorb light optimally and stay nicely glossy.
Feeding
During the growing season, from early spring to the end of summer, your Monstera needs extra nutrition to be able to form all those big leaves. In this period give liquid plant food for green houseplants about every two to four weeks, diluted according to the instructions on the packaging. Too much feed does more harm than good, so stick to the recommended dosage.
In autumn and winter the plant barely grows and needs no feeding. Stop feeding then until spring arrives again and you see the first new leaves appearing. That is the signal that the plant is back in growth mode and you can resume feeding.
Repotting and the moss pole
A Monstera grows fast and will need a larger pot every few years. The best moment to repot is in spring, at the start of the growing season. Are roots poking out of the drainage hole or is the plant clearly cramped? Then it is time. Because the Monstera is naturally a climber, this is also the moment to add a moss pole. A moss pole imitates the tree trunk the plant climbs in nature, gives the aerial roots something to hold on to and encourages the plant to grow taller with larger, more strongly fenestrated leaves.
Repotting with a moss pole, step by step
- Choose a pot about 2 to 4 cm wider than the current one, with a good drainage hole.
- Put a layer of clay pebbles in the bottom for good drainage.
- Place the moss pole firmly in the middle of the pot, behind the plant.
- Carefully take the Monstera out of the old pot and shake some old soil off the roots.
- Put the plant in the new pot and top up with fresh, airy houseplant compost.
- Press the soil down lightly and tie the stems loosely to the moss pole with plant clips or soft twine.
- Keep the moss pole moist by misting it now and then, so the aerial roots grow into it.
- Water the plant generously and put it back in its familiar spot.
Looking for a plant that is already firmly established on a moss pole and makes an instant impression? In our collection of large Monsteras you will find fully grown specimens ready to go straight into your home.
Why is my Monstera not getting holes?
This is perhaps the most frequently asked question about the Swiss cheese plant. The good news: in most cases nothing is wrong. The characteristic holes and notches, known as fenestration, only develop as the plant gets older and larger. Young leaves are naturally still solid and heart-shaped. Only with age do the new leaves start to split and form holes.
Is your plant already fairly large and the holes still fail to appear? Then the most likely cause is a lack of light. The Monstera needs enough bright, indirect light to gather the energy it uses to make fenestrated leaves. In that case move it to a brighter spot. A moss pole and regular feeding during the growing season also help the plant develop mature, split leaves more quickly.
Aerial roots: what do you do with them?
At some point you will see thick, brownish roots growing outwards from the stems. These are the aerial roots, and they are entirely normal and healthy. In nature the Monstera uses them to grip tree trunks and to absorb extra moisture from the air. So it is not a sign that something is wrong, quite the opposite.
You have a few options. You can simply leave the aerial roots be, as they are part of the plant. If you want a tidier look, you can carefully guide them back into the pot, so they root further in the soil and give the plant extra stability. Do you have a moss pole? Then guide the aerial roots towards the pole, where they will attach themselves. Only cut them off if there is really no alternative, and then use clean, sharp scissors. Avoid removing many of them, as they help the plant with moisture and support.
Solving common problems
Even an easy plant like the Monstera sometimes shows that something is not quite right. Fortunately the signals are easy to read. Below are the most common complaints with their cause and solution.
Yellow leaves
Cause: in the vast majority of cases yellow leaves indicate too much water. The roots are then too wet and can no longer take up oxygen. Solution: let the soil dry out thoroughly before watering again, and check that the pot has a drainage hole and that the water drains away well. A single yellowed leaf at the bottom of an otherwise healthy plant is simply old age; you can remove that leaf.
Brown spots or brown edges
Cause: brown, crispy edges usually point to air that is too dry or too little water. Brown spots in the middle of the leaf can be caused by harsh direct sun (scorch marks). Solution: raise humidity by misting, water more regularly and move the plant out of harsh midday sun.
No holes in the leaves
Cause: a young plant, or too little light in an older plant. Solution: give the plant time, move it to a brighter spot with bright indirect light and add a moss pole to encourage mature, fenestrated growth.
Droplets on the leaves
Cause: small droplets on the leaf edges are called guttation. This happens when the plant takes up more moisture than it evaporates, often after a generous watering. It is completely harmless. Solution: nothing is wrong, but if it happens often you can be a little more careful with watering.
Is the Monstera toxic to pets?
Yes, the Monstera is toxic to cats and dogs. The plant contains calcium oxalate crystals, which when the leaves are chewed or eaten can cause mouth irritation, drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. The same applies to people: the sap can irritate, so wash your hands after pruning.
If you have pets at home, put the Monstera somewhere cats and dogs cannot reach, for example high on a plant table or in a room they do not enter. Do you notice a pet has eaten from the plant and has persistent symptoms? Then contact your vet.
Popular Monstera varieties
The Monstera is a genus with various species and varieties, each with its own character. These are the best known and most loved.
- Monstera deliciosa: the classic Swiss cheese plant with large leaves and substantial holes. The best known and most requested variety.
- Monstera deliciosa 'borsigiana': a somewhat more compact, faster grower than the ordinary deliciosa, with slightly smaller leaves. Ideal if you have a little less space.
- Monstera adansonii: also called the monkey mask, with narrower leaves full of smaller holes. A graceful, slightly finer presence.
- Monstera 'Variegata' (Albo): the rare variegated version with white patches and stripes on the leaves. Spectacular to look at, and therefore rarer and more expensive.
- Monstera 'Thai Constellation': also variegated, but with a creamy, star-like speckling across the leaf. A sought-after collector's plant.
Whether you go for the imposing classic deliciosa or are looking for a special variety, in our collection of large Monsteras you will find healthy, fully grown plants that make an instant impression in your interior.
Frequently asked questions about the Monstera
How often should I water my Monstera?
Water as soon as the top 2 to 3 cm of soil feels dry. In spring and summer that often works out at about every 7 days, in autumn and winter every 10 to 14 days. Always feel the soil before you water.
Why is my Monstera not getting holes?
Young leaves are naturally solid. The holes (fenestration) only come as the plant matures. If the holes fail to appear on a larger plant, it is probably getting too little light. Move it to a spot with bright, indirect light and add a moss pole if needed.
Does a Monstera need a moss pole?
A moss pole is not strictly necessary, but it is strongly recommended. The Monstera is naturally a climber. A moss pole gives the aerial roots something to hold on to and encourages the plant to grow taller with larger, more strongly fenestrated leaves.
Is the Monstera toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes. The Monstera contains calcium oxalate crystals which, if ingested, can cause mouth irritation, drooling and vomiting in cats and dogs. Keep the plant out of reach of pets.
Why does my Monstera have yellow leaves?
Yellow leaves usually indicate too much water. Let the soil dry out thoroughly before watering again and use a pot with a good drainage hole. A single yellowed lower leaf on a healthy plant is normal ageing.
What are those thick roots growing out of the stem?
Those are aerial roots, and they are entirely normal and healthy. The Monstera uses them to climb and to absorb moisture. You can leave them, guide them back into the pot or direct them towards the moss pole.
How big can a Monstera get?
Indoors a Monstera with a moss pole and good care can easily reach 2 to 3 metres, with leaves up to 60 to 90 cm wide. In the wild they get far bigger still.
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