The Sansevieria, better known as the snake plant or mother-in-law's tongue, is arguably the most forgiving houseplant you can bring home. With its sturdy, upright sword-shaped leaves it brings calm and structure to any room, while needing virtually no attention. Forget to water it once? No problem. Standing in a dark spot where other plants give up? The snake plant simply keeps growing. That makes it the ideal plant for beginners, busy people and anyone who likes a sleek, graphic silhouette without the fuss.
In this guide you will read exactly how to keep the Sansevieria healthy: from the right position and the art of watering sparingly to repotting, propagating and solving the problems you come across in practice. Looking for a substantial specimen for your home or office? Then be sure to take a look at our collection of large Sansevierias.
The Sansevieria in brief
Short on time? These are the key care points at a glance:
- Light: tolerates everything from bright sun to shade. In a bright spot it grows faster; in a dark corner it survives perfectly well.
- Water: let the soil dry out completely between waterings. In summer about every two to three weeks, in winter every three to six weeks.
- Position: room temperature between 18 and 27 °C. Do not place below 10 °C.
- Humidity: low humidity is no problem at all; misting is not needed.
- Toxic: mildly toxic to cats and dogs because of saponins. Keep out of reach of nibbling pets.
- Biggest risk: too much water. When in doubt, give too little rather than too much.
About the Sansevieria and its origins
The Sansevieria comes originally from the dry, rocky regions of West Africa, where it is used to poor soil, heat and long periods without rain. That origin immediately explains why the plant is so indestructible: it stores moisture in its thick leaves and can live off that for weeks. Botanically the plant is nowadays classified under the genus Dracaena and is officially called Dracaena trifasciata, within the Asparagaceae family. The familiar name Sansevieria remains by far the most widely used, as do the nicknames mother-in-law's tongue and snake plant.
The plant owes the name mother-in-law's tongue to its long, pointed and upright leaves. Those leaves are often attractively banded in dark and light green, and in many varieties edged with a striking yellow or cream margin. It is a slow but steady grower that becomes fuller over the years and can eventually reach an impressive height. A mature large Sansevieria of a metre or more is a real eye-catcher and works almost like a living sculpture in your interior.
Light and position
One of the greatest advantages of the Sansevieria is its flexibility when it comes to light. It feels at home in virtually any spot in the house, from a sunny window to a dim corner in the hallway. That makes it the obvious choice for awkward places where many other houseplants give up.
How much light does the snake plant need?
The snake plant looks best and grows fastest in a bright position with indirect sunlight. It copes fine with a few hours of morning or evening sun. In a darker spot it stays healthy, but grows more slowly and the leaf markings sometimes stay a little less pronounced. Varieties with yellow-edged leaves, such as the 'Laurentii', keep their colour best with enough light.
Harsh midday sun behind glass can cause mild scorch marks in the long run, especially if the plant has not gradually got used to it. Is your Sansevieria moving from a dark to a sunny spot? Then build it up step by step so the leaves can adjust.
The ideal temperature
The Sansevieria likes ordinary room temperature, somewhere between 18 and 27 °C. It tolerates heat excellently, but cold is its weak point. Keep it away from cold draughts and make sure the temperature does not drop below 10 °C. So in winter do not put it right in front of a cold window or in an unheated room.
Watering
If you remember only one thing about the Sansevieria, let it be this: too much water is this plant's greatest enemy. The thick leaves store moisture, letting the plant get through long dry spells effortlessly. Too much water, on the other hand, quickly leads to rotting roots and soft, toppling leaves.
How often to water?
The golden rule is simple: let the compost dry out completely before watering again. Push your finger a few centimetres into the soil. Does it still feel damp? Then wait a little longer. During the growing period from spring to summer this usually works out at watering about every two to three weeks. In winter the plant is largely dormant and needs far less: every three to six weeks is then more than enough.
The right way to water
- Water directly onto the soil and not into the heart of the leaf rosette, as moisture can sit there and cause rot.
- Always let excess water drain away properly. Use a pot with drainage holes and throw away the water in the saucer after watering.
- Preferably use lukewarm water at room temperature.
- When in doubt: wait another few days. A Sansevieria that is too dry recovers very quickly, but it comes back from being too wet with much more difficulty.
Humidity
Where many tropical houseplants crave a humid environment, the Sansevieria could not care less. Low humidity is no problem at all for this desert dweller. So you do not need to mist the leaves and a humidifier is unnecessary. Even in a room with dry air from the heating the snake plant feels perfectly at home. That makes it ideal for modern, well-heated homes and offices.
Feeding
The Sansevieria is a frugal eater and needs little feeding. Even so, it appreciates a little extra support during the growing season to keep growing nice and full.
- In spring and summer give some liquid houseplant food dissolved in the watering water about once a month.
- Preferably use a feed for cacti and succulents, or apply an ordinary houseplant fertiliser at half strength.
- Do not feed in autumn and winter. The plant is resting then and needs no extra nutrients.
- Never feed bone-dry soil. Moisten the compost lightly first to avoid root damage.
Repotting, step by step
The Sansevieria likes a somewhat snug pot and rarely needs repotting, on average every two to three years. It is only time for a larger pot when roots are visibly growing out of the drainage holes, the pot starts to bulge or the plant becomes top-heavy. Spring is the ideal moment to repot.
- Step 1. Choose a pot only a few centimetres larger than the current one, with good drainage holes. A pot that is too large holds too much moisture.
- Step 2. Use airy, free-draining compost. Special cactus and succulent compost is ideal, optionally with a handful of perlite or fine grit for extra drainage.
- Step 3. Carefully take the plant out of the old pot and shake the loose soil off the roots. Check straight away that there are no soft, brown or rotting roots among them and cut those away.
- Step 4. Put a layer of fresh compost in the bottom of the new pot and set the plant at the same depth as before. Top up with soil and press down lightly.
- Step 5. Do not water for the first week after repotting. That gives any damaged roots the chance to recover before they take up moisture again.
Propagating a Sansevieria
Want more specimens or to split up a plant that has grown too large? The snake plant is surprisingly easy to propagate. There are two reliable methods.
Propagating by division
The quickest and most certain way is division. Take the plant out of the pot and find the natural points where the rhizomes split. Carefully pull or cut the plant into two or more parts, so each part has its own leaves and roots. Pot the parts separately in fresh, free-draining compost. The big advantage: with yellow-edged varieties such as the 'Laurentii' this method preserves the yellow margin, which is usually lost with leaf cuttings.
Propagating from leaf cuttings
You can also use a healthy leaf. Cut a leaf off and, if you like, divide it into pieces of about five to ten centimetres. Keep careful track of which end was at the bottom, as a cutting only grows from the underside. Let the cut edges dry for a day or two and then push the pieces a few centimetres into moist compost, bottom end down. Water sparingly and be patient: rooting can take several weeks to months.
Common problems
The Sansevieria is rarely ill, and almost all problems can be traced back to watering. Below are the most common complaints with their cause and solution.
Soft, toppling leaves
Cause: this is almost always a sign of too much water. The leaves lose their firmness, become mushy at the base and bend over or fall open from the heart.
Solution: stop watering immediately and let the soil dry out completely. If it is severely limp, take the plant out of the pot and check the roots for rot. Remove soft, brown roots and leaves and pot the plant up in fresh, dry compost. From now on be stricter with watering.
Yellow leaves
Cause: yellow leaves usually also point to too much water, often combined with wet soil or the start of root rot. Sometimes they are simply old lower leaves dying off naturally.
Solution: let the soil dry out well and assess whether there is root rot. A single old, yellowed leaf can simply be removed at the base. If new yellow leaves keep appearing, check the roots.
Wrinkled, curling leaves
Cause: wrinkled or slightly sunken leaves indicate dehydration. The plant has gone too long without water and is drawing too far on its moisture reserves.
Solution: give the plant a good watering and let the excess drain away. Within a few days to a week the leaves regain their firmness. Then resume your normal, regular rhythm.
Root rot
Cause: persistently wet soil, a pot without drainage or water left standing in the saucer. The roots rot and can no longer absorb moisture and nutrients.
Solution: take the plant out of the pot and rinse the roots clean. Cut away all soft, brown or foul-smelling roots with clean scissors and keep only the firm, pale ones. Pot the plant up in fresh, dry and free-draining compost and wait a week before watering again.
The Sansevieria as an air-purifying plant
The snake plant has been known for years as one of the best-known air-purifying houseplants. It filters substances from the air through its leaves and so contributes to a fresher living or working environment. What is special is that, unlike most plants, the Sansevieria also releases oxygen at night. That makes it a popular choice for the bedroom, where it quietly gets on with its work while you sleep. Want to boost the effect? Then group several specimens together or choose a few substantial large Sansevierias spread around your home.
Is the Sansevieria toxic?
Yes, the Sansevieria is mildly toxic. The plant contains saponins, substances that can cause irritation if ingested. For people the plant is not dangerous to have at home, but it is sensible not to eat the leaves and to wash your hands after repotting or pruning.
Extra care applies for cats and dogs. If your pet likes to gnaw at plants, eating the leaves can lead to drooling, vomiting or stomach ache. The symptoms are usually mild, but preferably place the plant out of reach of curious pets. If you are in doubt or your animal has eaten a lot, contact your vet.
Popular Sansevieria varieties
There are countless varieties of the snake plant, each with its own leaf shape, colour or markings. These are the best known and most loved:
- Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii': the classic, with striking yellow-edged leaves along a green-banded centre. By far the best-known snake plant.
- Sansevieria trifasciata: the green basic form, with leaves banded alternately in dark and light green without a yellow edge.
- Sansevieria 'Zeylanica': robust and grey-green, with wavy cross bands and no yellow edges. A strong, understated presence.
- Sansevieria cylindrica: striking for its round, rod-shaped leaves instead of flat swords. The leaves are sometimes braided.
- Sansevieria 'Moonshine': an elegant version with broad, silver-green leaves that give the plant a soft, almost graphic look.
- Sansevieria 'Futura': more compact and broader-leaved than the 'Laurentii', with an attractive yellow edge. Lovely for smaller spots.
Want a substantial specimen that makes an instant impression? View our current collection of large Sansevierias and find the variety that best suits your interior.
Frequently asked questions about the Sansevieria
How often should I water my Sansevieria?
Always let the soil dry out completely between waterings. In summer that usually works out at about every two to three weeks, in winter every three to six weeks. When in doubt, give too little water rather than too much.
Can the Sansevieria stand in a dark room?
Yes. The snake plant is one of the few houseplants that tolerates a dark spot well. It grows more slowly there than in a bright position, but stays healthy. For the fastest growth and the best leaf markings choose a bright spot with indirect sunlight.
Why are the leaves of my snake plant falling over?
Toppling, soft leaves are almost always the result of too much water. Let the soil dry out completely, check the roots for rot and be careful with watering from now on. Only water again when the soil is bone dry.
Is the Sansevieria toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes, the plant is mildly toxic to cats and dogs because of the saponins it contains. Eating the leaves can cause drooling, vomiting or stomach ache. The symptoms are usually mild, but preferably place the plant out of reach of pets.
How do I propagate a Sansevieria?
There are two ways: by dividing the plant into sections when repotting, or from leaf cuttings. Division is fastest and preserves the yellow edge on yellow-margined varieties. Leaf cuttings take longer and often produce an entirely green plant.
Should I mist my Sansevieria?
No. The Sansevieria comes from a dry climate and has no need for high humidity. Misting is unnecessary and can even backfire if water is left standing in the heart of the plant.
How big can a Sansevieria get?
That depends on the variety. Substantial versions such as the 'Laurentii' and 'Zeylanica' can reach a metre or more indoors. It grows slowly but steadily, so a mature specimen lasts as an eye-catcher for years.
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